Hidden Lucca

Travel tips and events in Tuscany

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From Lucca by train: the best art city day trips for smart travelers

Let’s be honest for a moment. As much as we adore Lucca—with its protective Renaissance walls, the slow pace of life, and that golden light that hits the Guinigi Tower just right—we know that you didn’t fly all the way to Tuscany to see only one city. You want to see the Leaning Tower. You probably want to stand in the shadow of Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence. And you should. But here is the secret that savvy travelers eventually figure out: you don’t need to pack your bags and move hotels every two days to do it.

Lucca is, quite arguably, the most strategic base camp in Tuscany. While the Chianti countryside is beautiful, it often requires a rental car and nerves of steel to navigate winding roads. Lucca, on the other hand, sits comfortably on a major railway line. It offers you the luxury of unpacking once in your Flat in Town apartment and using the efficient (and affordable) Italian train system to explore the region’s heavy hitters.

In this guide, we are going to look at how to master the art of the day trip. We are leaving the car keys behind to avoid the nightmare of parking fines and ZTL zones. Instead, we are hopping on the train to discover Pisa, Pistoia, and Florence, all while making it back to Lucca in time for a relaxing aperitivo within the walls.

Why the train is your best friend in Tuscany

If you come from a country where public transport is an afterthought, you might be skeptical. But in Tuscany, the regional train system (Trenitalia) is a lifeline. From the station located just outside the city walls in Piazza Ricasoli, you are connected to the rest of the region with remarkable frequency.

Driving in historic Italian cities is stressful. Between the dreaded ZTL (Limited Traffic Zones) cameras that snap photos of unauthorized license plates and the exorbitant cost of parking, a car can be more of a burden than a blessing for city hopping. The train drops you right in the historical centers. It allows you to enjoy a glass of wine with lunch without worrying about the drive back. Plus, the views from the train window—rolling fields, sunflowers, and old farmhouses—are a tour in themselves.

Local tip: Before you board any regional train, remember to validate your paper ticket! Look for the small green or yellow machines on the platform or in the station lobby. Slide your ticket in until you hear a stamp. If you buy your ticket online via the Trenitalia app, you just need to check in on your phone before the departure time.

Pisa: much more than just a leaning tower

Pisa is Lucca’s historic rival and nearest neighbor. The train ride is incredibly short—usually between 25 and 30 minutes—making it the easiest half-day trip you can take. You can wake up late, have a leisurely breakfast in Lucca, and still be taking selfies with the tower by noon.

The logistics

Trains run between Lucca and Pisa Centrale roughly every 30 minutes. A one-way ticket costs less than a cappuccino and a brioche. Once you arrive at Pisa Centrale, you have two options: you can take the “Pisa Mover” shuttle or a bus to the Tower area, or you can do what we recommend: walk.

The walking route

Walking from Pisa Centrale to the Piazza dei Miracoli takes about 25 minutes, but it takes you through the real Pisa. Cross the Arno river at the Ponte di Mezzo for spectacular views. Walk through the Borgo Stretto, a lively street flanked by arcades and high-end shops. It’s a side of the city that most bus-bound tourists completely miss.

What to see beyond the tower

Everyone goes for the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery. They are magnificent, white marble masterpieces that deserve the hype. However, once you have snapped the obligatory photo, seek out these gems:

  • Keith Haring’s Tuttomondo: Located on the rear wall of the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate (very close to the train station), this massive mural is one of the few permanent public works by Haring. It is vibrant, colorful, and a stark contrast to the medieval architecture.
  • Piazza dei Cavalieri: This was the political center of medieval Pisa. The Palazzo della Carovana, with its intricate sgraffito façade, now houses the prestigious Scuola Normale Superiore. It is usually much quieter than the Tower area.
  • The Arno Promenade: The Lungarni (streets along the river) are beautiful, especially at sunset. Grab a gelato and stroll along the water to see the reflection of the palaces.

Pistoia: the hidden gem of Tuscany

If you want to escape the crowds of Americans and Brits and see where the Tuscans actually live and hang out, buy a ticket to Pistoia. Located about 45 to 50 minutes from Lucca towards Florence, Pistoia is often overlooked, which is exactly why you should go.

Pistoia was the Italian Capital of Culture in 2017, yet it remains refreshingly authentic. It feels like a miniature Florence but without the long lines and the overpriced tourist menus. It is an elegant, well-kept city with a thriving food scene.

The Piazza del Duomo

Pistoia’s main square is one of the finest in Italy. It hosts the Cathedral of San Zeno, the Baptistery (which you can enter), and the bell tower. If you are fit, climb the bell tower for a view that rivals any in the region. The square is also home to a lively market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, selling everything from clothes to fresh produce.

Pistoia underground

For something completely different, book a tour of Pistoia Sotterranea. This archaeological path takes you beneath the Ospedale del Ceppo (an ancient hospital with a stunning frieze on its exterior). You will walk along the old riverbed of the Brana stream, seeing medieval bridges and olive oil mills that were buried over centuries as the city grew. It is a fascinating look at the layers of history.

A foodie paradise

Because Pistoia caters more to locals than tourists, the food quality is exceptionally high. Look for restaurants in the Piazza della Sala. By day, it’s a vegetable market; by night, the stalls vanish and it transforms into the heart of the city’s nightlife, filled with wine bars and tables spilling out onto the cobblestones.

Florence: the renaissance giant

Florence needs no introduction. It is the cradle of the Renaissance, home to Michelangelo’s David and the Uffizi Gallery. Many people think they need to stay in Florence to experience it, but staying in Lucca and visiting for the day is often the smarter move. Florence can be overwhelming—hot, crowded, and noisy. Knowing you have a quiet apartment in Lucca to return to makes the day much more enjoyable.

Getting there stress-free

The train from Lucca to Florence (Firenze Santa Maria Novella) takes between 1 hour 20 minutes and 1 hour 45 minutes, depending on whether you catch a direct train or one that stops more frequently. The scenery changes from the plains of Lucca to the denser urban sprawl of Florence.

Crucial tip: Firenze Santa Maria Novella (SMN) is the main station, located right in the city center. Do not get off at Firenze Rifredi or Firenze Campo di Marte unless you know exactly what you are doing.

A strategic one-day itinerary

Since you are visiting for the day, you cannot see everything. Attempting to do the Uffizi, the Accademia, and the Duomo climb in one day is a recipe for burnout. Here is a more balanced approach:

  1. Morning (The Market): Arrive by 9:30 AM. Walk straight to the Mercato Centrale. The ground floor is a feast for the senses with butchers, fishmongers, and spice sellers. The upper floor is a gourmet food court. Grab a coffee and a pastry here.
  2. Mid-Morning (The Duomo): Walk to the Piazza del Duomo. Admire the exterior of the cathedral and the Baptistery doors. Unless you have pre-booked tickets weeks in advance, skip the climb and just enjoy the majesty from the ground.
  3. Lunch (Oltrarno): Cross the Ponte Vecchio (quickly, it’s crowded!) and head into the Oltrarno district. This is the “left bank” of Florence, full of artisans and workshops. Find a trattoria in Piazza Santo Spirito for a more authentic lunch.
  4. Afternoon (One Museum or a Garden): Pick one major site. Either book a timed entry for the Uffizi to see Botticelli’s Venus, or if the weather is nice, walk up to the Boboli Gardens for green space and views.
  5. Late Afternoon (Aperitivo): Before catching your train back, stop for a Negroni. Florence is where this famous cocktail was born (specifically at Caffe Casoni, now Caffe Giacosa, though many claim the title).

Prato: the unexpected stop

If you have already done the “Big Three” (Pisa, Florence, Siena) and want something off the beaten path, consider stopping in Prato. It is on the same train line as Florence and Pistoia.

Prato is famous for two things: textiles and biscotti. The historic center is enclosed by hexagonal walls and features the Castello dell’Imperatore, the only Swabian castle in central/northern Italy. But the real reason to stop is for the sweet tooth.

Prato is the birthplace of Cantuccini (often just called biscotti di Prato). Head to the historic bakery Mattonella or the world-famous Antonio Mattei. Buying a blue bag of Mattei biscuits is a rite of passage. They are harder and crunchier than the ones you buy abroad, designed specifically to be dipped in Vin Santo.

Practical tips for the train traveler

To ensure your day trips run as smoothly as a Swiss watch (or a very good Italian espresso machine), keep these practicalities in mind:

The Trenitalia App

Download the Trenitalia app before your trip. It allows you to check schedules in real-time, see if trains are running late, and buy tickets without queuing at the station machines. Just remember, digital regional tickets usually require you to “check-in” on the app before boarding.

Strike days

Occasionally, Italy experiences transport strikes (scioperi). These are usually announced in advance. If you see signs regarding a strike, ask a local or your host at Flat in Town for advice. Usually, there are “guaranteed bands” of time (early morning and evening) when trains must run.

First class vs. second class

On regional trains (Regionale Veloce), the difference between 1st and 2nd class is negligible. You might get slightly more legroom or a cleaner seat in 1st class, but for short trips to Pisa or Pistoia, 2nd class is perfectly fine and safe.

Coming home to Lucca

The best part of these day trips is the return journey. As the train pulls back into Lucca, usually in the late afternoon or early evening, you feel a distinct shift in atmosphere. You leave the frenetic energy of Florence or the tourist buzz of Pisa behind.

Walking from the Lucca station back through the city walls—perhaps entering through Porta San Pietro—you are greeted by the tree-lined promenades and the sound of bicycles rattling over cobblestones. It’s the perfect time to stop at a local deli, pick up some pecorino cheese and prosciutto, and head back to your apartment. You have seen the masterpieces of Tuscany, but you get to sleep in its most charming living room.

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